The history of sushi in Los Angeles spans decades, a sweeping chronicle of entrepreneurship and a sprawling city’s culinary evolution. Though the first mention of sushi in this paper goes back to 1899, L.A.’s love of raw fish with rice took hold in Little Tokyo in the 1960s, at its first sushi bar serving Tokyo-style nigiri. Popular American sushi culture was born.
Sushi bars soon spread to the Westside, and by the 1970s, they had proliferated throughout the city. We went wild for over-the-top rolls named after mythical creatures and stuffed with shrimp tempura or cream cheese in the ’80s and ’90s. We saw the rise of Matsuhisa and Masa in Beverly Hills and stalked Ventura Boulevard for “trust me” omakase, jockeying for seats in front of favorite sushi chefs.
Our obsession with sushi has never waned, through baroque embellishments and stripped-down bento, whether our tuna was spicy or our rice crispy. Now more than ever, we look to the fundamentals and sushi’s roots in Tokyo as a growing roster of omakase restaurants explore the nuances of traditional techniques. But L.A. has lots more to offer, for any craving.
Here’s where to find the best supermarket sushi, ultimate California rolls, homestyle futomaki and inari, vegan sushi, sleek hand rolls and the most spectacular omakase in the city.